INTRODUCTION:

Skin is the canopy for the body that is deterrent to detrimental environmental conditions. Its three layers; epidermis (external layer) shields the body against blue light effects on melanocytes and stratum corneum in epidermis protect from carcinogenic Ultraviolet radiations, dermis (intermediate layer) maintains the temperature and water within the body and hypodermis (internal layer) which contains adipocytes for healing of the skin. Water-soluble molecules are mostly transferred by the transcellular pathway, whereas lipid-soluble molecules are carried via the intercellular system. The trans epidermal route is the collective term for the transcellular and intercellular pathways.

Solute molecules can infiltrate the skin through the sebaceous glands, sweat ducts, or hair follicles. Compared to vigorous skin, impaired skin avows more traverse. For instance, compared to 1% in unscathed skin, up to 80% of hydrocortisone can penetrate the shoal and ingress the dermis in skin with a disturbed epidermal layer¹.

Programmed cell death (apoptosis) is a substantial mechanism that protects mucosal barrier of skin by resolving inflammation and injuries². The shedding of these apoptotic cells is necessary so that intracellular components do not enter the surrounding tissue, but an autoimmune disorder can cause delayed or ineffectual dead cell removal³. This condition has adverse effects of causing Ichthyosis vulgaris, Atopic dermatitis, clogging skin pores and acne vulgaris⁴. The acute skin ailment known as atopic dermatitis is characterized by the cutaneous layer's responsiveness. According to the latest findings, dermatitis is susceptible to inflammatory and immune disorders⁵. The pilosebaceous follicle disease acne vulgaris is marked by both inflammatory (papules, nodules, and pustules) and non-inflammatory (comedones) breakouts⁶.

The process of getting rid of dead skin cells is called exfoliation. Exfoliation is prerequisite as the facial skin is a manifestation of overall body health. The hypodermis's fatty tissues shrink because of atrophied dermis and thin epidermis. Exfoliation that stimulates natural cell regeneration works wonders for prematurely aged skin. Exfoliation is also necessary for hypermigration caused by an increase in melanocytes to rapidly shed pigmented cells and lighten age spots. A mild exfoliating procedure aids in hydrating deep skin cells because excessive moisturization can cause uneven skin tone and tight skin. UV light damages DNA, proteins, and lipids over time as well as causing photodamage to the dermis and epidermis. Because of actinic keratosis, photodamaged skin appears thicker and less elastic due to the hypertrophy of elastic tissues. Dead cells are removed through exfoliation before they cause more abnormalities or malignancy⁷.

Chemical and mechanical exfoliation are two types of removing dead skin cells⁸. Chemical exfoliants use alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acid (BHAs) which treats psoriasis, wrinkling and skin aging but AHAs are not suitable for oily skin as it is not oil-soluble. In addition to it, chemical exfoliants are not biodegradable and make skin susceptible to UV rays’ diseases. Mechanical exfoliation involves natural herbs, oil seeds and microdermabrasion. This exfoliation clears white and black heads, promotes collagen formation, diminishes dark spots and is suitable for all skin types⁹.

In the last several decades, the usage of herbal medicinal products has surged up significantly. One of the primary premises that they are always efficacious is that they come at a cost and offer an approach when other panacea does not¹⁰. The earliest set forth medical techniques used by individuals on the planet are thought to be medicinal herbs. Conventional medical structures that have developed over time among various societies are still impervious as an ample archaeological core in botanical countermeasure long before the advent of avant-garde elixir¹¹. These herbal products can be in the form of cosmetics. Any material envisioned to be set in proximity outside sections of the human body or with oral cavity with the intent solely or mostly of sterilizing them, cologne them, alter the way they look or rectify fetid odours or even defend them or maintaining them under favourable conditions is how European Directive 93/35/EEC defines cosmetic products¹². The key element of every skin care regimen is a facial scrub. A face scrub tends to be a cosmetic with tiny exfoliating grains that, when massaged over the dermis, peel dead, arid cell debris to uniform the skin¹³.

For sensitive skin types, granulated sugar and oil seeds such as primrose, poppy and hemp seeds can be used as antibacterial exfoliants. These oil seeds contain omega -6 linoleic acid and palmitic acid that support skin barrier and induce cell regeneration. For oily skin type, coffee beans and rice powder as exfoliants control sebum production. Coffee beans and rice powder both contain tannins that are responsible for diminishing acne breakouts¹⁴. For dry skin type, almond seeds are effective in skin pigmentation and dryness due to presence of linoleic acid¹⁵.

The following are the ideal characteristics for face exfoliating scrub.

1. It must be non-abrasive and non-adhesive.

2. Lightly scented can be pleasant without overwhelming the senses.

3. It must be moisturizing and hydrating.

4. Minute gritty particles must be present for gentle exfoliation.

5. Jelly-like scrubs provide smooth exfoliation when exfoliants are rubbed against the skin.

MATERIALS AND METHODS:

Materials:

Beakers, Measuring Balance, Drying Oven, Measuring Cylinders, Stirrers, pH meter, and Stainer. These were procured from the laboratory.

Ingredients and percentage formulation:

The ingredients, and their quantity required for the formulation of 100 ml jelly face scrub are depicted in (table 1).

Table 1 Ingredients and Percentages

Sr. No.	Ingredients	Quantity (%)
1.	Xanthan Gum-Soft	2g (2 %)
2.	Glycerine	10g (10%)
3.	Distilled Water	83.5 ml (83.5%)
4.	Liquid Germall Plus	0.5 ml (0.5%)
5.	Poppy Seeds	5g (5%)
6.	Citric Acid Solution	Six drops
7.	Fragrance	2-3 drops

Preparation of poppy seeds jelly scrub;

2% Xanthan gum was taken in a 100ml beaker. 10% glycerine (moisturizing agent) was taken in the second beaker and added to the first one containing xanthan gum. 83.5% of distilled water was added and stirred continuously for 10 minutes to give a jelly like texture. 0.5 % of Liquid Germall plus (preservative) were added to give a better shelf life to the product. 5% poppy seeds were washed and stained to remove any impurities present and dried in drying oven for 5-10 minutes. After drying, poppy seeds were amalgamated to the products as an exfoliating agent. 5g of citric acid was taken in a separate beaker and 5 ml of distilled water was added to it to dilute the citric acid (50:50 ratio of citric acid and water). 5-6 drops of citric acid solution were gradually poured to stabilize the pH (citric acid only added if pH exceeds 6). A tartrazine yellow colour was added to the poppy seeds scrub. (Note: Only EU certified food colour was added; Tartrazine yellow having E no. 102). 2 drops of natural essential oil Jasmine was added to the scrub to give a pleasant fragrance.

Significance of methodology phases:

Blending:

For jelly face scrub xanthan gum was blended with glycerine. The process of dispersing xanthan gum into water involved first producing a vortex in the water and then slowly sprinkling the gum into it. Xanthan gum is a natural thickening agent manufactured from plant-based sugars. It is hydrophilic in nature and gave scrub its jelly like texture. Glycerine acts as a humectant by attracting water molecules from the environment and as a moisturizer by locking hydration within skin cells, binding with collagen to give elasticity to skin.

Hydration:

Xanthan gum dissolves well in both warm and cold water. To create the jelly-like texture, distilled water was mixed to xanthan gum and glycerine. By separating the particles, the gelling agent was able to prevent lumps from forming. The gum could then be blended with other powdered materials, including sugars, to reduce the formation of agglomerates. Similarly, the material might be added to liquids like oils that have a non-aqueous phase. Distilled water is a solvent for dissolving ingredients. It took precedence over other solvents because it is impurities free, prevents irritation and allergic reactions.

Preservation and exfoliation Washing and cleaning of poppy seeds:

Liquid Germall Plus was added as a preservative. It was selected because it is free from synthetic alkyl parabens and has a pH of 3-8 which is totally compatible with skin’s pH 4-6. Poppy seeds were used as an exfoliant to remove dead skin cells. Poppys seeds are oil seeds that play a crucial role as an antioxidant to remove free radicals from the body and reduce damage caused by oxidation. By inhibiting the spread of oxidative chain reactions or by boosting our cellular antioxidant defences, antioxidants are agents that can defer or halt the oxidation of biological components. Free radical scavengers are a substitute for antioxidant chemicals whose typical mode of action involves contact directly with free radicals to regulate them^16,17,18.

Washing and cleaning of poppy seeds:

Morphine levels in poppy seeds can be lowered by 40–75% by washing or soaking them in cold water (boiling or hot water can reduce levels by almost 100%). Poppy seeds, like many other seeds and grains, can harbour dirt, debris, and pesticides from the cultivation and harvesting process. Thoroughly cleaning poppy seeds help remove dust, soil particles, or microbial contaminants, that may compromise their quality or safety.

Stabilization of pH:

A solution (50-50%) of Citric Acid and Distilled water was prepared to stabilize the pH of the product. Hydrogen ions (H+) are released as the acid is dissolved in water, raising the concentration of H+ ions in the mixture. This drops the pH and increases the acidity of solution. Citric acid has a pH of 3-6 which is compatible with skin’s pH.

Assessment Parameters:

a) Organoleptic evaluation:

The qualitative technique in which a pharmacologist studies the properties of crude medications, particularly those derived from plants, by using sense organs of eyes, nose, tongue, ears, and touch is referred to as Sensory characteristics, while the methodology used is known as Organoleptic in general¹⁹.

b) Color and odor:

Visual analysis was done for the color of the jelly face scrub and olfactory analysis was utilized to evaluate the jelly face scrub’s odor.

c) Texture:

A very small amount of scrub was applied to the skin to facilitate the sensory evaluation, and visual inspection was also carried out. As a result, the texture was comparable to that of sugar scrubs.

d) Irritability:

The forearm's one-square centimetre area was scrubbed with the prepared jelly face scrub, and the skin was then periodically examined for hives, contact dermatitis, irritation, erythema, and edema²⁰.

e) Extrudability:

When choosing, packing, and removing a gel from its container, this mechanical characteristic is crucial. Rheological properties also affect a product's hardness, spread ability, and in vivo efficacy when applied topically²¹. A small amount of gel was put into a reusable ointment tube. While one end was closed off, the other was left open. A slight pressure was applied on the closed side. The amount of gel extruded was observed²². Jelly Face scrub was easily extruded out of the tube.

f) Consistency and Stability:

Many natural polymers are a source of microorganisms, microorganisms can contaminate both solid dosage forms containing natural polymers and formulations containing moisture²³. Oxidative degradation involving molecular oxygen and reactions involving other oxidizing agents found in the formulation also affect the consistency of the product. Water attacks labile bonds on the product by nucleophilic attack during hydrolysis processes. The fastest reactions are those containing lactam groups; those involving esters, amides, and imides come next. Temperature has a significant impact on a wide range of reactions, and temperature increases typically speed up these reactions.

g) Thermal Stability:

Scrub was subjected to two rounds of consistency testing: in Round 1, testing was conducted at room temperature and in a freezer at -19°C to -17 C for three days, with periodic checks. In Round 2, the testing period was extended to two weeks to ensure consistency was maintained over a longer span.

h) Packaging:

Scrub was first kept in a plastic container for two weeks and stability of the product was determined that whether any degradation of product occurred. After that, it was kept in a kempt glass container for the next two weeks to determine the stability of product and observed the differences by changing the packaging.

i) Grittiness:

For people with sensitive skin, too-coarse particles can cause microtears and discomfort by abusing the skin's surface. This test was executed to see if the scrub formulation had any tiny grit particles.

j) Shelf Life:

Visual analysis was done for the color of the jelly face scrub. The shelf life of poppy seeds was calculated by this formula.

Shelf Life = Expiration Date-Manufacturing Date (1)

Manufacturing date: November 1,2023

Expiration Date: May 1, 2024

Shelf Life = 6 months

k) Washability:

Face scrub that is properly washable reduces the risk of pore blockage or skin irritation. After rubbing the scrub, the skin was washed with regular tap water.

l) Spread Ability:

A scrub with good spread ability makes a larger contact with the skin, which facilitates fast skin absorption of the treatment²⁴. A glass slide with a small amount of sample on it was topped by another slide. Weight was applied to the slide, allowed to spread, and the amount of time it takes to do so was measured. It was calculated using this formula.

S = m × L/t (2)

S= spread ability

M= weight placed on slide = 80gm

L= length of glass slide = 5 cm

T= time taken in seconds = 54 sec

m) pH:

The skin's acid mantle preserves the following skin functions: antimicrobial defense, epidermal barrier homeostasis; and integrity/cohesion of the corneum stratum. It is proposed that lipid-lipid interactions and the production of lipophilic components are pH-dependent processes that control dispersion²⁵. The pH was measured using a pH meter. The electrodes, which served as probes, were dipped into the test solutions, and left there long enough for the test solution's hydrogen ions to equalize with the ions on the glass electrode's surface.

n) Optical Rotation:

Numerous active components included in skincare products, including vitamins, amino acids, and other bioactive substances, can exist in various enantiomeric forms, or mirror images, each of which may have unique biological properties. When polarized light travels through a liquid layer, it rotates the plane of polarization by an angle known as optical rotation. Levo rotation is denoted by a (-) symbol, while dextrorotation by a (+). Using an automatic digital polarimeter model 418, optical rotation was measured.

Specifications:

1. Power supply: 220VAC/50Hz

2. Measuring range: +/- 45º

3. Readability: +/- 0.001

4. Precision: +/- 0.01º

5. Minimum transmittance of the sample: 1%

6. Tubes: 100 mm and 200 mm

7. Wavelength of the lamp: 589.3 nm

8. LED lamp

9. Digital display

10. Automatic detection

Phytochemicals Testing:

Phytochemicals are photoprotective agents due to their ability to activate nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor 2 -regulated redox balance and, as a result, maintain cellular homeostasis involved in skin. The tests given in this section were used to determine the presence of phytochemicals in the face scrub.

a) Alkaloids:

1 ml water was mixed with sample and Hager’s reagent (1 g of picric acid in 100 mL of water) was added.

b) Tannins:

1 ml water was mixed with sample and 2 ml of 5% FeCl3 solution was added.

c) Flavonoids:

1 ml water was mixed with sample and few drops of NaOH solution was added.

d) Phenolics:

1 ml water was mixed with water and 1-2 drops of FeCl3 solution was added.

e) Steroids:

1 ml water was mixed with sample then 2ml chloroform and 2 ml concentrated H₂SO₄ solution was added.

UV/Visible spectrum:

The efficacy and safety of active ingredients, such as sunscreens, as well as the evaluation of product stability over time, batch-to-batch consistency, regulatory compliance, ingredient identity and purity verification, and formulation optimization all depend on the determination of UV/Vis spectra in skincare products. Using this analytical technique, manufacturers can make sure that their goods meet quality and safety standards, offer reliable protection against UV rays, and remain stable and effective over time. The ultraviolet-visible spectral region is characterized by spectroscopy of light in the visible and adjacent (near-UV and near-infrared (NIR) ranges; electromagnetic radiation of this region causes molecules to undergo electronic transitions; in addition to fluorescence spectroscopy, this method deals with transitions from the excited state to the ground state, while absorption measures transitions from the ground state to the excited state; the determination is typically done in solutions; samples were subjected to ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy using a Shimadzu UV-1700 Spectrophotometer; deionized water was used as a solvent.

Measurement properties:

Wavelength Range(nm): 200.000 to 800.000

Scan Speed: Fast

Sampling Interval: 1.0

Auto-Sampling Interval: Disabled

Scan Mode: Single

Instrumental properties:

Instrument Type: UV-1700

Measuring Mode: Absorbance

Slit-Width: 1.0 nm

Light Source Change Wavelength: 340.8 nm

S/R Exchange: Normal

Attachment properties:

Attachment: Normal

RESULT:

a) Organoleptic Evaluation

The results of organoleptic evaluation done on scrub are depicted in (table 2).

Table 2. Organoleptic Parameters Evaluation

Sr.	Parameters	Observations
1.	Colour	Yellow
2.	Odor	Jasmine
3.	Texture	Jelly-like
4.	Irritability
		Hives	No protruding bumps
		Contact Dermatitis	No Ulcers, discomfort, or dryness of the skin observed
		Erythema	No bruising, burning or redness
		Edema	No swelling or itchiness observed

b) Consistency and Stability:

The results of consistency parameters are depicted in (table 3).

Table 3. Consistency evaluation

Sr. No.	Parameters	Results
1.	Thermal Stability	No discernible degradation in Round 1 and 2
2.	Packaging	Degradation in Plastic Container. Stability retained in Glass Container.
3.	Shelf Life	Durable for 6 months
4.	Washability	Easily washable
5.	Spread Ability	7.407 gcms^-1
6.	Grittiness	Mild gritty particles

c) pH:

The results of pH values of scrubs with different concentrations are depicted in (table 4).

The optimized pH value of the scrub was determined to be 5.2.

Table 4. pH values

Sr. No.	Composition code	pH values
1.	C1	5.2
2.	C2	5.5
3.	C3	5.1
4.	C4	5.0
5.	C5	5.2

d) Optical Rotation:

The optical rotation in poppy seeds scrub was calculated to be +0.02.

e) Phytochemicals testing:

The results of phytochemical tests are depicted in (table 5).

Table 5. Phytochemicals results

Sr. No.	Phytochemical	Presence
1.	Alkaloids	ü
2.	Tannins	û
3.	Flavonoids	ü
4.	Phenolics	ü
5.	Steroids	û

UV/Visible spectrum:

The graph between absorbance and wavelength was drawn. The wavelength range was between 2oo to 800 nm. UV/Visible spectrum of both jelly scrubs is depicted in (figure 1).

Fig. 1. UV Spectrum of Absorbance Vs Wavelength

Wavelengths and absorbance:

Wavelength 297.000 nm, Absorbance 0.118

Wavelength 270.000 nm, Absorbance 0.293

DISCUSSION:

Every shade and fragrance trigger different emotional reactions, affecting customer perception, and expectations regarding the efficacy of the product. An assessment of irritability according to table 2 is also a part of the organoleptic examination, and the lack of negative skin reactions indicates that the formulation is safe to use on a range of skin types.

During the first round of testing of thermal stability, the scrub did not significantly lose its original texture and in round 2, the scrub still indicated its resistance to heat stress, confirming its stability in a range of environmental circumstances according to table 3. There are several reasons for the difference in stability between scrubs kept in glass and plastic containers. Plastic containers, which are made of polymers that are prone to permeability, allow external elements such as light, microbes, oxygen, and moisture to enter the product more easily. Increased permeability due to porous nature of plastic, speeds up the formulation's breakdown, which could change the scrub's appearance and consistency. Glass containers reduce the possibility of chemical reactions and microbial contamination by acting as an inert barrier. The scrub may deteriorate after the designed shelf life, as microbial growth, changes in product efficacy or consistency, and component breakdown are some of the leading factors causing this degradation. The easy-to-clean feature in skincare regimens, washability suggests that it doesn’t leave behind any sticky residue and removes excess oil and pollutants. When applied to the skin, a gel with good spread ability will ensure that it is distributed evenly; this ranges from 5-7 cm^{-1 26}. Good spread ability means that the scrub can be applied to the skin in an even manner, guaranteeing uniform coverage throughout the whole region of application. The poppy seed scrub has light grit particles that remove dead skin cells without creating severe abrasion. This level of grittiness made it acceptable for regular use on dry skin. pH of poppy seeds scrub was within range of 5-5.5 according to table 4 which was compatible with skin’s pH. In case of skin moisturization, a lower pH of the skin's surface indicates a stronger defence against dermatitis caused by sodium lauryl sulphate. Skin pH < 5.0 exhibit statistically significant less scaling and higher levels of moisture. Propionibacterium grows best at pH values between 6.0 and 6.5; around pH 5.5, growth slows down. While Staphylococcus aureus grows most readily at pH 7.5, it also multiplies slowly at pH 5.0 to 6.0²⁷.

Compared to washing with water (pH 7.0), cleaning sensitive skin with a somewhat acidic emulsion (pH 5.5) only slightly damaged the function of the stratum corneum. In poppy seeds, morphine has five chiral centres, codeine has one and noscapine has two chiral centres that make them optically active. In addition to it xanthan gum also has chiral atoms in its side chain in the mannose and glucuronic acid residues therefore contribute towards chiral nature of scrub. Although poppy seeds were not considered to be a source of alkaloids, later studies revealed that opium alkaloids (morphine, codeine, noscapine, thebaine and papaverine) are present in alkaloids in varying amounts. Hence poppy seeds scrub showed positive results for alkaloids according to table 5. Morphine acts as local aesthetics; codeine has anticancer properties and papaverine relaxes smooth muscles²⁸. Tannins are present in many plant species, but the antibacterial activity of poppy seeds is not because of tannins²⁹. Therefore, tannins were not indicated in poppy seeds scrub. Different inflammatory mediators are drawn to free radicals, which can lead to tissue damage and an overall inflammatory response. Flavonoids in poppy seeds have the potential to significantly lower reactive oxygen species (ROS) in a variety of ways by interacting with certain enzymes and cell membranes³⁰. Poppy seeds contain various bioactive anti-inflammatory effects phytochemicals; one of which is flavonoids. The main phenolic compounds in poppy seeds are vanillic, ferulic, cinnamic, p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric and protocatechuic acids (PCA)³¹. Cinnamic acid exhibits antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase properties³². Ferulic and p-coumaric acids are employed for their anti-melanogenic, photoprotective, and antioxidant properties.

The provided data represents the absorbance (Abs) values measured across a range of wavelengths (nm) from 200 nm to approximately 800 nm according to figure 1. When plotting these data points on a graph with wavelength on the x-axis and absorbance on the y-axis, we can observe various trends and patterns indicative of the material's optical properties. Initially, the graph shows a significant peak at 200 nm with an absorbance value of 4. This suggests a strong absorption in the UV region, potentially indicating the presence of a specific chromophore or molecular structure that strongly absorbs at this wavelength. As the wavelength increases to around 204 nm, there is a sharp decline in absorbance, indicating a rapid decrease in absorption capacity. Between 205 nm and 210 nm, the absorbance fluctuates with a noticeable peak at 205 nm and another smaller peak at 207 nm, before sharply dropping again. This pattern of peaks and valleys might correspond to electronic transitions within the molecule, hinting at multiple absorbing species or vibrational modes within this wavelength range. Beyond 210 nm, the absorbance remains relatively low, hovering around zero with minor fluctuations, until a small increase is observed around 250 nm. From this point, the absorbance gradually increases, reaching another peak at 270 nm. This region might indicate additional electronic transitions or the presence of other absorbing groups within the material. After 270 nm, the absorbance decreases and stabilizes around zero, suggesting minimal absorption in the visible range. This trend continues until approximately 400 nm, where absorbance values become consistently low and remain nearly constant through to 800 nm. This stability in the visible and near-infrared region suggests the material does not significantly absorb light in these ranges, indicating its transparency or lack of absorbing chromophores in this spectral region. The results of UV spectrum of poppy seeds scrub confirmed the presence of phenolic acids and flavonoids as the wavelengths of 270 and 297 nm were observed. UV absorption at 270–280 nm and 305–330 nm is the wavelength range of phenolic acids while, flavonoids have the absorption of UV in 270–280 nm and 310–350 nm wavelength³³.

CONCLUSION:

Scrubs made from oil seeds are simpler, safer, and more efficient to use than scrubs made from chemical exfoliants that are sold today. The fact that natural cosmetics work wonders on all skin types; oily, dry, and sensitive is one of their primary points of differentiation. Herbal treatments are primarily used for treating dermatoses and promoting health. They should not contain parabens or non-biodegradable materials, which are hazardous for both human skin and marine life when discarded. By deeply permeating and hydrating the skin's epidermal layer, the use of glycerin and distilled water promotes collagen elasticity. Dermatitis and acne vulgaris can be effectively treated by the jelly-like texture and mild exfoliant. The developed product was assessed utilizing several characteristics and found to be appropriate for skin. Every assessment test that was conducted on the formulation was successful.

CONFLICT OF INTEREST:

The authors have no conflicts of interest regarding this investigation.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS:

The author would like to thank Chemistry Department of University of Engineering and Technology, Lahore, Pakistan for granting the access to the lab equipment required to create the facial scrub. Sincere gratitude is extended to Dr. Zahoor Ahmad, Research Supervisor, for his unwavering leadership during the research study to get the efficacious results and to Dr. Sarmad Iqbal for allowing me to conduct testing at Allama Iqbal Open University.

REFERENCES:

1. Ali et al. The structure of skin and transdermal drug delivery system-a review. Research Journal of Pharmacy and Technology. 2015; 8(2): 103-109. doi. 10.5958/0974-360X.2015.00019.0

2. Anderton et al. Cell death in skin function, inflammation, and disease. Biochemical Journal. 2022; 479(15): 1621-1651. https://doi.org/10.1042/BCJ20210606

3. Lauber et al. Clearance of apoptotic cells: getting rid of the corpses. Molecular cell. 2004; 14(3): 277-287. DOI: 10.1016/s1097-2765(04)00237-0

4. Szymański et al. Cytokines and apoptosis in atopic dermatitis. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/ Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii. 2021; 38(1): 1-13. https://doi.org/10.5114/ada.2019.88394

5. Jadhav et al. Development of cosmeceutical cream for dermatitis and acne vulgaris. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2018; 9(1): 33-36. doi. 10.5958/2321-5844.2018.00007.9

6. Kushwaha et al. Formulation development and evaluation of polyherbal hydrogel for effective treatment of acne. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2017; 8(1): 1-11. doi. 10.5958/2321-5844.2017.00001.2

7. Packianathan et al. Skin care with herbal exfoliants. Functional Plant Science and Biotechnology. 2011; 5(1):94-97.

8. Talpekar et al. Formulation, development and comparative study of facial scrub using synethetic and natural exfoliant. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2016; 7(1): 1-8. doi. 10.5958/2321-5844.2016.00001.7

9. Behalpade et al. Skin care with exfoliation process. International Journal of Current Science. 2022; 12(12). https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:265106135

10. Mahanthesh et al. Development and screening of anticonvulsant polyherbal formulation. Research Journal of Pharmacy and Technology. 2017; 10(5): 1402-1416. doi. 10.5958/0974-360X.2017.00250.5

11. Sengottuvelu et al. Toxicological Evaluation of a Novel Anti-Ulcer Herbal Formulation. Research Journal of Pharmacy and Technology. 2008; 1(3): 207-210.

12. Meena et al. A Review on Herbal Plants used in Skin and Hair Treatment. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2010; 1(1): 13-17.

13. Ghadage et al. Formulation and evaluation of herbal scrub using tamarind peel. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2021; 12(1): 40-43. doi. 10.52711/2321-5844.2021.00006

14. Muddathir et al. Anti-acne activity of tannin-related compounds isolated from Terminalia laxiflora. Journal of wood science. 2013; 59:426-43. doi. 10.1007/s10086-013-1344-4

15. Colic et al. Almond (Prunus dulcis) oil. In M. F. Ramadan (Ed.), Fruit Oils: Chemistry and Functionality. Springer, Cham. 2019; 131–151. doi. 10.1007/978-3-030-12473-1.

16. Deshmukh et al. Antioxidant and Antiproliferative Activity of Root Suspension Culture of Morinda citrifolia L. Research Journal of Pharmacy and Technology. 2010; 3(4): 1189-1193.

17. Pal et al. Antioxidant and free radical scavenging activity of ethanolic extract of Morinda citrifolia. Research Journal of Pharmacy and Technology. 2011; 4(8): 1224-1226.

18. Dolas Ashadevi et al. R. Antioxidant study of skin creams after expiry date by using HPLC. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2023; 14(1): 7-10. doi. 10.52711/2321-5844.2023.00002

19. Selvam et al. Can the term Phytosensology be preferred over the term Organoleptic? Pharmacognosy Research. 2010; 2(4): 271. doi. 10.4103/0974-8490.69131

20. Anilkumar et al. In-house preparation, development and evaluation of herbal cosmetics face pack using various natural powders. Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics. 2020; 10(5): 159-164. http://dx.doi.org/10.22270/jddt.v10i5.4314

21. Chellathurai et al. Development of a Polyherbal Topical Gel for the treatment of Acne. Gels. 2023; 9(2): 163. https://doi.org/10.3390/gels9020163

22. Pawar et al. Formulation and evaluation of herbal scrub gel. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2019; 10(1): 13-18. doi. 10.5958/2321-5844.2019.00004.9

23. Waterman et al. Accelerated aging: prediction of chemical stability of pharmaceuticals. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 2005; 293(1-2): 101-125. doi. 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2004.12.013

24. Schreml et al. Skin pH in the elderly and appropriate skin care. European Medical Journal Dermatology. 2014; 2(1): 86-94. https://doi.org/10.33590/emjdermatol/10314990

25. Nurman et al. The optimization of gel preparations using the active compounds of arabica coffee ground nanoparticles. Scientia Pharmaceutica. 2019; 87(4): 32. https://doi.org/10.3390/scipharm87040032

26. Wiechers et al. Formulating at pH 4–5: How lower pH benefits the skin and formulations. Cosmet Toilet. 2008; 123(12): 61-70.

27. Carlin et al. Opium alkaloids in harvested and thermally processed poppy seeds. Frontiers in Chemistry. 2020; 8:737. https://doi.org/10.3389/fchem.2020.00737

28. Stępniowska et al. Selected Alkaloids Used in the Cosmetics Industry. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2021; 72(2): 229-245.

29. Mishra et al. Phytochemical study and antimicrobial activity of khus-khus (papaver somniferum) seeds. World Journal of Pharmaceutical Research. 2021; 10(11): 1663–1681. doi. 10.20959/wjpr202111-21413

30. Singh et al. Flavonoids in rice, their role in health benefits. MOJ Food Process Technol. 2017; 4(3):96-99. doi. 10.15406/mojfpt.2017.04.00095

31. Ghafoor et al. Changes in quality, bioactive compounds, fatty acids, tocopherols, and phenolic composition in oven-and microwave-roasted poppy seeds and oil. LWT. 2019; 99: 490–496. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.lwt.2018.10.017

32. Taofiq et al. Phenolic acids, cinnamic acid, and ergosterol as cosmeceutical ingredients: Stabilization by microencapsulation to ensure sustained bioactivity. Microchemical Journal. 2019; 147 (4): 469-477. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.microc.2019.03.059

33. Liu et al. Recent advances in phenolic–protein conjugates: Synthesis, characterization, biological activities and potential applications. RSC Advances. 2019; 9(61): 35825-35840. doi. 10.1039/C9RA07808H

Received on 20.11.2024 Revised on 12.12.2024

Accepted on 08.01.2025 Published on 28.03.2025

Available online from April 01, 2025

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2025; 16(1):13-20.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2025.00003

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. Creative Commons License.